It's Christmas Eve and soon it will be a new year! Time passes so very fast. The older I get the faster it seems to fly by.

The past few years have held surprises, surgeries that were certainly unexpected, but were successful, and many other events. This year held the biggest surprise of all - - - breast cancer. I had surgery at the end of July, a healing period, then radiation treatments. Then over a month to get over side effects of the treatments. So it's been an eventful year but a wonderful one because the C had not spread and the surgeon was able to remove all of it!

I hope your year has been as good and that the coming new year is a fantastic year for us all!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Geeze! It's been over a year

It has been over a year since I was last on here. Amazing...

I hope to put a few more patterns up soon. I want to put all that I've done on here for free use.

In July the doctor found a lump in my breast, that turned out to be cancer. I hope everyone will stay up to date on their mammograms! That is what saved me. They performed a lumpectomy or partial-mastectomy and were able to get all of it. It had not spread to my lymph nodes, and subsequent tests were good, so no chemo. I did have radiation treatments for over a month. They are finished, but I'm still not over the side effects. Hopefully in another month I will be back up to par and able to crochet again.

Many have used my Spidey'ghan pattern, and I am asking you all to have your annual mammogram. They are not fun to have, but one might save your life as it did mine! For which I am very grateful and thankful.

Many hugs to everyone. Keep on hooking and enjoy Life!

Two-Sided Scrubbie

Two Sided Scrubbie : Copyright: Gail E and Wendy G ; January 15, 2007

 

 

Scrubbies side a

Scrubbies side b

 

 

 

One side is made with nylon yarn and the other side is made with cotton to hold the soap. I have been using mine for years and it really works great on everything I’ve used it for. With this little Scrubbie, there is no need for a pan of water to wash dishes in, just wet the scrubbie with hot water, dribble a little dish soap on the cotton side, squish it together to distribute the soap a bit and start washing. I prefer to use the synthetic side for everything. It does not scratch anything, but gets things clean faster.  They are also great in the bathroom, for bathing and for cleaning.

 

Supplies Needed:

Small amount worsted weight nylon/synthetic yarn.

Small amount worsted weight cotton yarn.

Size H/8 5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends.

 

3” Scrubbie

 

Side 1: Cotton Side

Rnd 1: With cotton yarn, ch 4. Join w/slst to first ch to form ring. (Or make Magic Circle), ch 2, make 12dc in ring. Join w/slst to top of first dc. (secure yarn end if you used MC method)

 

Rnd 2: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (24 dc)

 

Rnd 3: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (48 dc)

 

Join w/slst to first dc. Fasten off cotton yarn and weave ends into work.

 

 

Side 2:

 

Rnd 1: With synthetic yarn. Ch4, join w/slst to first ch to form ring. Ch2, make 12dc in ring. Join w/slst to top of first dc.

 

Rnd 2: ch 2, 2dc in same st as join and in each dc around. Join w/slst to top of first dc. (24 dc)

 

Rnd 3: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (48 dc)

 

To join both layers on the last round:

 

Ch 1, Hold both rounds with wrong sides together. With right side of synthetic circle facing you, insert hook in same st as join (*) BLO of synthetic side, and FLO of cotton side, and sc. Continuing to work through both loops, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave ends into work.

 

(*) You will be inserting the hook through the synthetic and cotton loops that are touching. If you have any problems/questions, please email me with them at Stitch_n_Frog@mchsi.com

 

 

6” Scrubbie

 

Side 1: Cotton Side

 

Rnd 1: With cotton yarn, ch 4. Join w/slst to first ch to form ring. (Or make Magic Circle), ch 2, make 12dc in ring. Join w/slst to top of first dc. (secure yarn end if you used MC method)

 

Rnd 2: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (24 dc)

 

Rnd 3: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (48 dc)

 

Rnd 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, (1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around.

 

Join w/slst to first dc. Fasten off cotton yarn and weave ends into work.

 

Side 2:

 

Rnd 1: With synthetic yarn. Ch4, join w/slst to first ch to form ring. Ch2, make 12dc in ring. Join w/slst to top of first dc.

 

Rnd 2: ch 2, 2dc in same st as join and in each dc around. Join w/slst to top of first dc. (24 dc)

 

Rnd 3: Ch2. 2dc in same st as join, and in each dc around (48 dc)

 

Rnd 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, (1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat around.

 

 

To join both layers on the last round:

 

Ch 1, Hold both rounds with wrong sides together. With right side of synthetic circle facing you, insert hook in same st as join (*) BLO of synthetic side, and FLO of cotton side, and sc. Continuing to work through both loops, sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave ends into work.

 

Note: I make sets of 3 scrubbies for gifting or selling. With one 6” and two 3” scrubbies making a set. I use a length of coordinate ribbon, to tie the set together.

 

You may make and sell Scrubbies that you make, because I have a problem with believing that I am the first to discover how to make two crocheted flat round circles and place them back to back~

 

~~~Happy Hooking

Crochet Stitch Sampler Hat & Scarf

Crochet Hat and Scarf Pattern

Copyright Jan 2007 by Gail E and Wendy G

Adult Size Scarf

6 oz Worsted Weight 4-ply yarn for scarf & hat

I hook for Adult

H hook for Child

Needle to work ends in

Ch 21

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch to end (21

sts) ch 2, turn. (20 stitches throughout)

Row 2: 1 hdc in first st and each st to end. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: 1 dc in 2nd stitch and each st to end. Ch 3 turn.

Row 4: 1 tr in 2nd stitch and each st to end. Ch 4, turn.

Row 5: tr in 4th st, *ch 1, tr in first skipped stitch, skip 2 sts, tr in next stitch – repeat to end, ending with

1 tr in last st. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6: 1 sc in 1st st and each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7: 1 BLO sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8: 1 FLO sc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 9: 1 hdc in first st and each st across, end with hdc in last st. Ch2, turn.

Row 10 & 11: *FP hdc in next st, BP hdc in next st – repeat across, ending with hdc in 2nd ch of turning

chain. Ch 2, turn.

Row 12: *FP hdc in next st, BP hdc in next st – repeat across, ending with hdc in 2nd ch of turning chain.

Ch 1, turn.

Row 13: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 14: 1 BLO sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 15: 1 FLO sc in each st across. Ch 4, turn.

Row 16: tr in 4th st, *ch 1, tr in first skipped stitch, skip 2 sts, tr in next stitch – repeat to end, ending

with 1 tr in last st. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 13-16, 20 times, or until almost as long as you want the scarf.

For Ending of Scarf:

Row 1: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 1 BLO sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: 1 FLO sc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 1 hdc in first st and each st to end. Ch 2, turn.

Row 5, 6, 7: *FP hdc in next st, BP hdc in next st – repeat across, ending with hdc in 2nd ch of turning

chain. Ch 2, turn

Row 8: *FP hdc in next st, BP hdc in next st – repeat across, ending with hdc in 2nd ch of turning chain.

Ch 1, turn.

Row 9: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10: 1 BLO sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 11: 1 FLO sc in each st across. Ch 4, turn.

Row 12: tr in 4th st, *ch 1, tr in first skipped stitch, skip 2 sts, tr in next stitch – repeat to end, ending

with 1 tr in last st. Ch 1, turn.

Row 13: 1 sc in 1st st and each stitch across. Ch 4, turn.

Row 14: 1 tr in 2nd stitch and each st to end. Ch 2, turn.

Row 15: 1 dc in 2nd stitch and each st to end. Ch 2 turn

Row 16: 1 hdc in first st and each st to end. Ch 1, turn.

Row 17: 1 sc in 1st st and each stitch across.

End yarn. Add fringe to both ends, in each corner and every 3rd stitch across.

Child’s Size Stitch Sampler Scarf

3 oz 3-ply/Sport Weight yarn for scarf & hat

H hook

Needle to work ends in

Ch 15

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each stitch to end (14 sts) ch 2, turn. (14 stitches throughout)

Work all rows the same as the adult scarf, when almost long enough to suit you, skip to Row 1 of

Ending of Scarf.

Adult & Child Stitch Sampler Cap

Ch 5, join with sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 3, make 13 dc in ring, join with sl st in 3rd ch of starting chain. (14 dc)

Rnd 2: ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as joining stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of

starting chain. (28 dc)

Rnd 3: ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as join, dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Repeat

around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of starting chain. (42 dc)

Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in same stitch as join, 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each

of the next 2 stitches. repeat around. join with sl st in 3rd ch of starting chain. (56 stitches)

Rnd 5: ch 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches, *2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches.

repeat around, join with sl st in 2nd ch of starting chain. (70 sts from here forward)

Rnd 6: ch 4, tr in each stitch around. Join with sl st in BLO in the 4th ch of starting chain.

Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in BLO of same stitch as join, sc in BLO of each st around. join with sl st in first sc.

Rnd 8: ch 2, *1 FP hdc in next stitch, 1 BP hdc in next st. repeat around, join with sl st in 2nd ch of

starting chain.

Rnds 9 & 10: repeat round 8, with FP in FP, and BP in BP, join with sl st in 2nd chain of starting chain.

Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in BLO of the same stitch as joining, and in each stitch around. join with sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in FLO of same stitch as joining and each stitch around. join in 1st sc.

Rnd 13: ch 5 (counts as the first tr + 1sc) (mark the 4th ch to join at the end) now going backwards, skip

1 stitch and tr in the next one. Going forward again, *skip next 2 sts, tr in 3rd, ch 1, tr in the first missed
stitch. repeat around, join with sl st in 4nd ch of starting chain.

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join and each stitch around – with 1 sc between the “X” and 2 sc

inside of the “X”. join with sl st in first sc.

Rnd 15: ch 1 sc in same st as join. 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st in FLO of first sc.

Rnd 16: ch 1, sc in FLO of same st as join. 1 sc in FLO of each st around. Join with sl st in first sc.

End yarn, weave ends in.

Child’s Stitch Sampler Cap

H hook for child

Needle for weaving ends

Ch 5, join with sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 3, make 13 dc in ring, join with sl st in 3rd ch of starting chain. (14 dc)

Rnd 2: ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as joining stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of

starting chain. (28 dc)

Rnd 3: ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as join, 1 dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next stitch.

Repeat around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of starting chain. (42 dc)

Rnd 4: ch 2, hdc in same stitch as join, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, *2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next 2

stitchs. repeat around, join with sl st in 2nd ch of starting chain. (56 sts from here forward)

Rnd 5: ch 4, tr in each stitch around. Join with sl st in BLO in 4th ch of starting chain.

Rnd 6: ch 1, 1 sc in BLO of same stitch as join, hdc in BLO in each st around. join with sl st in first sc.

Rnd 7: ch 2, *1 FP hdc in next stitch, 1 BP hdc in next st. repeat around, join with sl st in 2nd ch of

starting chain.

Rnds 8 & 9: repeat round 7, with FP in FP, and BP in BP, join with sl st in 2nd chain of starting chain.

Rnd 10: ch 1, sc in BLO same stitch as joining, and in of each stitch around. join in 1st sc in FOL.

Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in FLO of same stitch as joining and each stitch around. join in 1st sc.

Rnd 12: ch 5 (counts as the first tr + 1sc) (mark the 4th ch to join at the end) now going backwards, skip

1 stitch and tr in the next one. Going forward again, *skip next 2 sts, tr in 3rd, ch 1, tr in the first missed
stitch. repeat around, join with sl st in 4nd ch of starting chain.

Rnd 13: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join and each stitch around – with 1 sc between the “X” and 2 sc

inside of the “X”. join with sl st in first sc.

Rnd 14: ch 1 sc in same st as join. 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st in FLO of first sc.

Rnd 15: ch 1, sc in FLO of same st as join. 1 sc in FLO of each st around. Join with sl st in first sc.

If desired, ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch as joining, 1 RSC in each stitch around. join, end yarn, weave ends

in.

Follow the same hat pattern but change hooks & yarn~

For baby:

Red Heart Jamie yarn (or any 3-ply baby yarn) 3-ply yarn, F hook

For older child - H hook and 3-ply yarn

 

 



 

 

 

Bloodshot Eyeball Hacky Sack

Copyright July 2007 by Gail E and Wendy G

Worsted Weight yarn;

White

Desired Iris color

Small amount of Black

Red, Homespun

Small amount of dark embroidery thread coordinating with Iris color for edging iris – if desired.

G hook - Yarn needle – Scissors

Fiberfill for stuffing eyeball

Instructions:

Some of the Eyeball is worked in Rounds. At the end of the rounds, you will join with a sl st to the first hdc of

the first stitch of that round, ch 1, hdc in same stitch as join, and continue the count to the next set of 2 hdc.

And some is worked in Spirals. At the end of the round, you do not join, but instead you simply hdc into the

next stitch and move the marker to the new First Stitch.

NOTE: when you are working the Rounds and Spirals, continue to count when coming to the round

marker, move the marker to the new round-first-stitch and continue to count using the NEW round

sequence. (for instance, at the end of a round with the sequence count of “1 hdc in next 15 sts, 2-hdc in

next st” after you move the marker you would continue counting (instead of starting a new count) to “1

hdc in next 16 sts, 2-hdc in next st”)

 

Center of eye;

With black - Chain 2

Rnd 1: Work 9 half-double crochets in the 2nd chain from hook. Ch 1, 2 hcd in same stitch as join.

Rnd 2: Work 2 half-double crochets in each stitch around (18 hdc) end off yarn.

Attach Iris yarn in any stitch;

Rnd 3: Work 2 half-double crochets in each stitch around (36 hdc). Join with sl st in first stitch as join, ch 1, hdc

in same stitch as join.

Rnd 4: [1 hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around. Join with sl st in first stitch as join, ch 1,

hdc in same stitch as join.

Rnd 5: [1 hdc in next 9 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnd 6: [1 hdc in next 14 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around, end off yarn.

From this point on, you will work in the round, but in a spiral. Mark the first stitch of each round as you go--

however the "end" of rounds are only loosely followed in this pattern.

Attach White yarn in any stitch.

Rnd 7: [1 hdc in next 15 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around. when you get to the last stitch in this

round, do not join, instead make 1 hdc in first stitch of the round and continue counting to the next 2-hdc.

From Round 7 through Round 24, Continue the count as you pass & mark the round end, moving on to the

stitch-count of the next round.

Rnd 8: [1 hdc in next 16 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnd 9: [1 hdc in next 17 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnd 10: [1 hdc in next 18 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnd 11: [1 hdc in next 19 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnd 12: [1 hdc in next 20 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch] - repeat around

Rnds 13 & 14: even 1 half-double crochet in every stitch.

NOTE: It’s easier if you stitch the line around the Iris now, if you want it. I use a double-thickness of

embroidery thread to do this. Or do a round of sl st with a slightly darker or lighter color of yarn.

(Now you begin to decrease reversing the count sequence count)

Rnd 15: [1 hdc in next 20 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 16: [1 hdc in next 19 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 17: [1 hdc in next 18 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 18: [1 hdc in next 17 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts]- repeat around

Rnd 19: [1 hdc in next 16 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 20: [1 hdc in next 15 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 21: [1 hdc in next 14 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 22: [1 hdc in next 9 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around

Rnd 23: [1 hdc in next 5 stitches, hdc dec in next 2 sts] - repeat around, end off white yarn.

You may now take the marker off of the eyeball.

Stuff eyeball firmly with fiberfill.

Attach red Homespun yarn in any stitch and remove the First Stitch marker.

Rnd 24 to end *Work hdc dec in next 2 sts, repeat from * around. Do not join, simply continue working the

“hdc dec in next 2 stitches” until you have only a very small opening left for the “nerve” tails to exit from.

End off yarn, leaving long tail for a “nerve”.

With a yarn needle and a long piece of red yarn (I use about 5-1/2 to 6 feet of yarn) go through the center back

hole, leaving a long tail hanging out of the hole. Secure by gong around a bar of yarn twice to anchor the

“nerve” then work towards the iris. I use a ‘running stitch’ leaving space between each stitch to fill in on the

return trip from the Iris to the center back, so that all of the yarn tails exit through the center back. I’ve found

that making a braid with 3 strands of yarn at a time then tying a knot near the end will stop the Homespun from

fraying too much.

This pattern has been tested by an outside crocheter, who found no errors. But if you have a problem or find an

error, please email me at gaile44@mchsi.com

Make what changes appeal to you to make this YOUR work of art . . . even though the type of “art” may be in

question, it’s still Art~

Happy Hooking~

Double Sided One Piece Hot Pad/Pot Holder

Unlike some pot holders, this one is all in one piece. So while you may have two completely different colors/patterns on it, it won't slip or slide in use.

Double Color Pot Holder/Hot Pad - - -  

Jan 2006 by Gail E & Wendy G

Need:

2 skeins of contrasting colors of ww cotton yarn

size H hook

Large eye needle for weaving ends

Note:  When working Row 2, Always stitch with A to A, and with B to B. 

With color A, ch 29, sc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, going under only one loop of chain.  Drop color, do not finish off.

Row 1: Attach color B with sl st to empty loop of starting chain, at the end opposite of the starting tail.  ch 1, sc in same loop as sl st, and in each st across.  "Fold" two rows of sc up so that they are back-to-back.  ch 1, with side “A” facing you, working “over the top of the pot holder *sc in back loop of B and closest loop of A, repeat from * across.  Drop color, do not finish off.

Row 2:  Pick up the other color and Ch 1, turn, working over the top of the piece, sc in the horizontal bar (the horizontal bar that you will crochet into is in the same row of the color yarn you just picked up) of the row below all the way across. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3:  "Fold" (it will kind of "fold" automatically as you work along) the two rows of sc up so they are back-to-back. *sc in back loop of the row facing you and the closest loop of the row facing away from you, repeat from * across to end of row. Drop color, do not finish off.

Continue repeating rows 2 & 3 until pot holder is approximately square.  End with row 2 of color A. End color B.

Last row: ch 1 with color A, turn, *sl st in back loop of B and closest loop of A, repeat from * across.  Drop color, do not finish off.

ch 10, join with sc 3^rd stitch away from the corner.  sc in next st.  hdc in first ch and each ch back to starting point, sl st to the stitch beside starting ch.  End yarn, weave in ends.

Addition to the Spiderman afghan pattern page

I have added links to my pattern page, they are to two videos that I believe will help with most problems encountered.  If either of the ladies who made them want their link removed, please contact me and I will do so.  But I feel that the help you are giving the people who are working hard on the afghan are well worth allowing the links to stay on the page.

There are the two video links that I added ;

This one has helped others with questions about the vertical ribbing -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4qoHUprCSk

And this one seems to be in general work on the afghan -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS-PTao3mo4

Thank you so much for making the videos.  I can not, and know that your videos have helped a LOT of people.